Skiing in the Spanish Pyrenees
Skiing at Baqueira Beret, Val d'Aran, Spain, in the Catalan Pyrenees. (Photo: Baqueira Beret)
By Eli Siegel (Posted 3/20/24)
Serious skiers can add the Pyrenees to their bucket list.
If you’re looking for a ski destination that’s off-the-beaten path, has a wide variety of terrain alongside top-notch food, Baqueira Beret is for you. The resort, frequented by Spanish royalty as well as locals, is located in the heart of the Spanish Pyrenees — just a two-hour trip by bus or car from Toulouse, France, or a three-hour ride from Lleida, Spain.
The ski area features five different mountains, has a vertical drop of 3,300 feet, as well as more than 161 kilometers of marked trails, 7 kilometers of marked off-piste and 7 kilometers of cross-country trails. Such numbers make most American resorts seem small in comparison.
The terrain is especially well-suited for intermediate skiers who enjoy long groomed blue trails. Europe tends to emphasize groomers over off-piste, unlike American resorts, which leads to much more relaxed and enjoyable runs.
The best part is a one-day lift ticket is only 69 euros ($75) — and even cheaper if you buy a couple days in one package. That’s a far cry from the $200 plus prices at comparable mountains in the U.S.
When it’s time to take a break from the slopes, there are over 10 different restaurants and cafeterias to choose from, serving excellent, local cuisine from the Val d'Aran. My favorites included the Butifarra sausage sandwiches at the Restaurant Free Flow Bosque and the hamburgers at the Restaurante Bonaigua. Stop by the Bar Moet for a lively après-ski scene featuring a live DJ and buckets of champagne.
For lodging, it’s easiest to stay in one of the smaller towns in the valley below the mountains. Consider the town of Arties, just a five-minute drive away. There are several rustic hotel options, such as Hotel Besiberri, Hotel Irene and the Parador de Arties. If you don’t have a car, Hotel Irene offers shuttle service to the mountain. Or, there’s a local bus that stops by the town every hour and costs less than 2 euros ($2).
Village of Vielha (Photo: Baqueira Beret)
For food in Arties, Casa Tana features local specialties from the valley, such as French onion soup and meatballs. The pizzas at Pizzeria Mas Pasta, run by an Italian immigrant, are as good if not better than what you would find in Italy. Almost all of the restaurants in Arties are first-rate — and boast better quality and value than village fare at the base of the mountain.
On your way out, make sure to visit the other picturesque Spanish towns in the valley, such as Vielha, Garos and Salardu. They all feature small cobblestone streets, stone facades and slate roofs, as well as Romanesque architecture.
If You Go
Iberia offers direct flights to Madrid and Barcelona daily. There is a high-speed rail to Lleida, less than one hour from Barcelona, then a bus from Lleida to the Val d’Aran, under three hours. The quickest way to get there is to fly to Toulouse, France, then take a two-hour ride in bus or rental car to the mountain.
Baqueira Beret is a premiere ski mountain resort in the Catalan Pyrenees.
Val d’Aran Tourist Board provides key info about regional activities and timetables for local buses.
Hotel Irene is a quaint hotel in Arties, Spain, with free shuttle service to the mountain and a restaurant frequented by the royal family.