Cosmopolitan Madrid
Madrid’s El Retiro Park, a UNESCO world heritage site, at sunset.
By Fern Siegel
A vibrant, beautiful city, Madrid is one of the most exciting destinations in Europe. Pedro Almodóvar's films defined Madrid for American moviegoers — and his portrait of an electric metropolis is best experienced in close-up.
It's not unusual for Madrid's under-30 set to arrive at a bar at midnight, then go clubbing till 6 a.m. Popular Kapital offers seven floors of music, another longtime favorite is Joy. Many Madrileños head for Calle de las Huertas, a street that doubles as party central.
Like all great cosmopolitan centers, Madrid is a collection of neighborhoods — from the vast El Retiro Park to hip Chueca. Elegant Salamanca offers both exclusive and esoteric shops, such as Liberia Garcia Prieto, which sells maps and first editions. Bohemian La Latina, which houses the famed El Rastro flea market every Sunday, along La Ribera de Curtidores, is Almodóvar terrain. Romantic spots like Plaza de la Paja are often used in his movies.
Tapas bars abound, but if you want free tapas, order drinks at the lively El Tigre and plates of food will arrive with it. Try the mojitos.
Each district has a distinct charm; tradition and modernity peacefully co-exist. Begin at Plaza Puerta del Sol, a lively central square. Just north is the Gran Via, the geographic heart of the city for shopping and business.
For architectural lovers, the area houses several impressive buildings constructed in the first two decades of the 20th century: Metropolis, Telefonica and Palacio de la Prensa. By contrast, Plaza Mayor is the epicenter of Hapsburg Madrid. Two of the city's most iconic buildings — The Royal Palace and the Teatro Real Opera House — are minutes away.
Of course, much of the city's renown rests with its extraordinary art collections. The Art Triangle has three in close proximity: Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, which emphasizes the avant-garde, the Reina Sofia and the Prado.
The Prado, one of the great museums of the world, houses works from the Middle Ages to the 19th century, but specializes in Spanish painting, nearly 5,000 masterworks by famed artists such as El Greco, Zurbaran, Velázquez and Goya. His statue stands about 50 yards from the Prado's entrance, which borders the Royal Botanic Garden.
Reina Sofia Museum, often billed as a temple to modern art, houses some 17,000 works, including cubism and surrealism, as well as Dali, Miro and Picasso. Picasso's powerful "Guernica," painted in 1937 as a reaction against Franco's brutality during the Spanish Civil War, commands a room all its own. It's worth a visit just to see it. Added bonus: RSM is open Mondays.
While thousands visit the big three each year, explore the smaller museums -- especially the intimate Sorolla Museum, an artistic treat. The Art Nouveau home of the esteemed Luminist painter doubles as a gallery, complimented by exquisite gardens.
And don't leave Madrid without seeing flamenco. Casa Patas, Calle Canizares, 10, is said to showcase the finest dancers in the city. Each year, 300 performances take place, Monday-Saturday. Flamenco dancing, exhilarating to watch, is done in a special room behind the restaurant, which has a Mediterranean kitchen known for regional specialties. This is the real deal.
For sleek decors with upscale fare, consider Acquafredda or Ramses, with lounge and terrace designed by Philippe Starck. Traditional fare is found at Los Galayos, which has been open since 1894. Or enjoy a casual neighborhood bistro at Chocolat, Calle Santa Maria 30, in the Art Triangle neighborhood. The menu of the day is always a bargain. Make sure to order the specialty coffee or hot chocolate with fresh churros.
Getting around is easy -- the metro system is clean and efficient. 1, 3, 5 or 7-day passes are available. But one of the best ways to see Madrid is to walk it — and discover hidden gems in its narrow, cobblestone streets.
If You Go
Radisson Blu Madrid Prado offers Old World charm with New World amenities. The operative word is boutique: The chic hotel has 54 guest rooms and prides itself on service. The location is fantastic. Across from the Prado museum, it's a short stroll to the Caixa Forum cultural center, Reina Sofia and the luxury shopping at nearby Gran Via. All rooms have free high-speed Internet access. After sightseeing, check out the hotel's spa and indoor pool. The bath amenities by French designer Anne Semonin are sublime; the decor is minimalist, but intimate.